When the boating season comes to an end it's high time you thought about preparing your so-much-loved boat to winter season. If you work hard winterizing your boat you won't have to spend additional money and effort later, in spring. You also had better not forget that your insurance policy may not provide coverage for the damage caused by improper maintenance or neglect.
First of all you should decide where to store your boat. It's highly recommended that you keep it out of the water, fully covered in a climate-controlled dry dock. But since that can be expensive you might also consider cellophaning your boat. It may also be expensive, but on the other hand your boat will be well protected. Bottom line, for the off-season your boat must be covered.
You also could make a winterizing to-do list. Carefully read the operating instructions of your boat and engine to see what the manufacturers' recommendations are. Maybe you even will have to hire a professional to help you carry out the winterizing properly. Below you will find a short list of areas that are of the utmost concern.
Inboard Engine(s):
 Warm up the engine and change the oil. |
| Change the oil filter(s). |
| Flush the engine with fresh water. |
| Run antifreeze through the manifold (use a pickup hose from the water pump to a bucket of antifreeze). |
| Start the engine and let the antifreeze circulate until water starts to exit the exhaust (this process depends on whether you have a raw water or enclosed fresh water cooling system). |
| Change the transmission fluid. |
| Remove sparking-plugs and spray fogging oil into each cylinder. |
| Wipe the engine with a cloth sprayed with a little fogging oil or WD-40. |
Stern Drive(s):
| Examine the stern drive and remove plants, weeds, barnacles etc. |
| Drain the gear case and check for excessive moisture in the oil (if there is, be sure to check if there are leaking seals and fix them). |
| Clean the lower unit with soapy water. |
| Check for rubber boot (if any) for cracks or pinholes. |
| Grease all fittings and check fluid levels in hydraulic steering or lift pumps. |
| See if there are any additional manufacturer's recommendations in your owner's manual. |
Outboard Engine(s):
| Flush the engine with fresh water. For this use flush muffs or similar device attached to the raw water pickup. |
| Wait until all water drains from the engine. |
| Wash it with soapy water and rinse thoroughly. |
| Disconnect the fuel hose and run the engine until it stops. |
| Make sure that all fuel is drained from the carburetor so that evaporated fuel doesn't build up deposits. |
| Use fogging oil to lubricate the cylinder walls and pistons. |
| Use water-resistant grease on propeller shaft and threads. |
| Change the gear-oil in the lower unit. |
| Slightly lubricate the engine exterior or polish it with a good wax. |
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Fuel:
| Fill the fuel tank(s) to prevent its condensation in winter. |
| Add a fuel stabilizer as per user's manual. |
| Change the fuel filter(s) and water separator(s). |
Bilges:
| See to it that the bilges are clean and dry. |
| Use hot soapy water and a stiff brush to remove any oil spills. |
| Once the bilges are clean spray with a moisture displacing lubricant and add some antifreeze to prevent any water from freezing. |
Fresh Water System:
| Thoroughly drain the fresh water tank and the hot water heater (for this disconnect the in and out lines and connect them together). |
| Pump a non-toxic antifreeze into the system and turn on all the facets (including the shower) and have them work until you see the antifreeze coming out. |
| Put non-toxic antifreeze in the water heater. |
Head:
| Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility. |
| While pumping add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. |
| Follow the recommendations of the owner's manual and use Vanish crystals or whatever it recommends and let sit for a few minutes. |
| Add fresh water and pump out again. |
| Add antifreeze and pump through hoses, holding tank, y-valve, macerator and discharge hose. |
| (Check your owner's manual to ensure that an alcohol-base antifreeze won't damage your system). |
Interior:
| Remove all valuables, electronics, lines, PFD, fire extinguishers, flares, fenders etc. |
| All these items may be cleaned, checked and replaced if necessary. |
| Clean all the drawers and lockers. |
| Turn cushions up on edge so that they're aired or bring them home to a climate-controlled area. |
| Open and clean fridge and freezer. |
| Consider installing a dehumidifier to keep your boat dry and mildew-free, or use commercially available moisture absorber products. |
Out-of-water Storage:
| Pressure wash hull. |
| Clean barnacles off props and shafts, rudders, struts and trim tabs. |
| Clean all thru-hulls and strainers. |
| Open seasocks to drain any water. |
| Check the hull for blisters and if any turn to a professional to drain them. |
| Wax the hull thoroughly. |
| Remove the batteries from the boat and take them home or put them on a trickle charger or recharge every 2-3 months. |
In-water Storage:
| Close all seasocks and check rudder shafts and stuffing boxes for leaks. Tighten or repack if necessary. |
| Check the battery to ensure that its fully charged, clean terminals and make sure your charging system is working. |
| Check bilge pumps to make sure they are working and that float switches activate the pumps as they should and se to it that there's no debris. |
| Have your boat checked periodically or have the marina personnel check it and report to you. |
| If the water in your marina or dock freezes you should have a deicing device or bubbling system around your boat. |
If you follow our suggestions your boat is sure to be in good conditions in winter. But still don't forget to consult your owner's manual and manufacturer's recommendation on boat-maintenance. If you are winterizing the boat for the first time, be sure to ask an experienced friend for advice or turn to a professional to do the required job.
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